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Rust kills more of our trucks than any other cause. Both work OK but need annual reapplication and anything that is exposed to constant road spray like the A arms is bare in a matter of weeks.
This treatment will not wash off easily, or maybe ever. For most of the vehicle areas it seems like this will be a lifetime coating. It's a PITA, but worth it.Did my second oil change today on my 18 px. After I pumped out the oil i It's bad. My brand new RXTX had the coolant hose pop off last year, and Injectors are easy. Remember Me? Personal Watercraft Performance Skis. Results 1 to 8 of 8.
WD40 appears to be worthless against salt, however in practice, if the metal is stainless steel, has the salt water washed off, isnt submerged in water, and is dried off, and has a coating of WD40 applied each time, it will probably work just fine. I actually prefer the film to be visible so that i can see that its on there and not left unprotected like fluid film or T9 or wd40 What isnt mentioned is a pre-heat test.
Keep in mind there are bolts under the intake manifold and exhaust and other components that you cant reach with your spray can or hose. Q 20 is good stuff. I use all the products from the nanotechnology spray to the blu for my firearms. Nice work!!!
I love Motul Multi-Protect for salt prevention but the Effing tree hugging douche nozzles in California have banned it and now they no longer make it available in the US. I have a tiny little bit left and I am hoarding it!!!! I have been selling and using Corrosion X and Corrosion Block for years.Swi prolog tutorial mac
Used in for saltwater on outboard. Corrosion Block is one of the best, to protect against saltwater and does a great job. But I have to admit never drown a whole outboard underwater Corrosion X is thicker and will last longer, but issue with it So spraying on harness, hoses is not welcome. It will not eat away other stuff than metal. It is clean after drying. No product will last for ever, you will always have to re apply after a while when you rinse your engine anyway. If you want to apply a thick film that will repel water, use Quicksilver Corrosion Guard, it does an awesome job!
But get dirty after a while. And the brp spray is good? Replies: 52 Last Post:PM. Replies: 10 Last Post:PM. Replies: 3 Last Post:PM. Replies: 4 Last Post:PM. Sponsored Links. New Posts.
Thank you Butterbean, I appreciate the advice. GPr next mods Yesterday, PM.Pluto in 1st house appearance
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I know GIBBS is what everyone is using for that but until i can order some not too sure if it can be found locally in hawaii Last edited: Nov 2, I use LPS 3 on new or reconditioned engine parts that are going to be stored and the stuff works great.
After a few minutes it dries to a cosmoline like consistency, and wont wash off without using some kind of solvent.
Now for using it like Gibbs, I couldnt tell you how well it will work, but I would think it will be a bitch to completely remove to prep for paint at a later date. I use their zinc rich paint isde doors and such. Works well. TmanNov 3, I was just thinking about this stuff the other day.
Thought about picking some up and trying it. What's the word on this? I used LPS 3 on a pair of spindles I detailed back in ' They still look like they did the first day I shot them. The tacky surface eventually sets and other than the different sheen and slight yellowing, you can't beat it.
Mr T bodyNov 3, We use LPS 3 at work all the time and i'm talking about severe duty applications here. We spray pump flanges, mating surfaces that reqire no paint and even pump shafts prior to storing the pumps outside.Fluid Film Real World Test: Michigan Winter vs Truck Frame
Often time these units stay outside for months and to the point where the paint starts to discolour or flake, yet the protected surfaces remain rust free. I also use it at home to protect parts that I will store. I bought a butt load of BBC engine parts, cranks, rods, heads, blocks and the likes sprayed in with LPS and it cleans off after a bit of work, and then it's good to go.Remember Me?
Fluid Film vs LPS 3 vs WD40 vs Nothing
Site Navigation. I decided to test it out myself, and it worked pretty well! I didn't have time to figure out how to put it on the gun so didn't do that part yet.
JohnOfTheJungle - sounds good. FF is some good shit. Maybe that's why it smells like shit, perhaps. Originally Posted by amalik. I've used fluid film before but I actually prefer LPS 3. It dries to a soft "wax" like film that doesn't get everything oily AF. I think LPS 3 is a superior rust inhibitor based on the various testing I've read. The coating lasts a very, very long time. It meets a ton of aviation and MIL spec corrosion protection requirements.
I just put it in a spray bottle and apply it underneath my rig everywhere that I'm trying to protect. I also spray it in the frame throughout the various holes in all directions. A gallon of it is about 80 bucks on Amazon which should last you many, many years. As a bonus, it also smells wonderful LP3 on Amazon. Member's Picture Albums. I'd be interested to see the before and after pics. My runner is rusty also. Haha, love the banter. So - in order, here are my responses Mist in air - yes there was mist in the air.
I was okay with the mist though as I was outside, and also just happy it was working. Kind of like a mix of chapstick and wet wool - but not a chemical smell. It also cleans off pretty easily with soap and hot water.
Looks interesting, anything I can spray without needing a compressor and spray gun setup is good for me. FF is cheaper tho, and since it stays semi-wet it acts as a lubricant keeping bolts and stuff from getting stuck. I was going for minimum viable product here Here are some before pics that show you the general level of rust I have: I wire wheeled most of the rust off of my Upper Control Arms a few weeks ago and painted them: Here are a few shots post Fluid Film.Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website.
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Rust Protection - Boeshield or Fluid Film? Thread starter hamholfarm Start date Oct 31, Joined Mar 25, Messages 9.
Hello, I would like to know from those who have used either product of your opinions. If you have used both, I would like to know which you prefer and why.
This is the response I received. T-9 will remain liquid to the touch if left thick, and will form a micro thin waxy layer if the excess is removed. Fluid Film will remain about the consistency of Vaseline. Either can be used well in ways or sliding parts.
I appreciate your assistance. Joined Mar 25, Messages 2, I have both Boeshield and Fluid Film on the shelf and use both. The descriptions above are good. The thing I don't like about Fluid Film is the strong lanolin odor. Some may not mind that. I use Boeshield on tools that I use or handle with some frequency. I use Fluid Film for things that sit unused.
For example, my table saw will probably be idle all winter. I covered it with a layer of Fluid film. They both seem to work equally well but I have not done a formal test. The Fluid Film generally should be wiped off before use.
Last edited: Oct 31, Ed ke6bnl Registered Registered. Joined Nov 20, Messages I have a gallon of the fluid film and it is like enamel paint and I called fluid film and they said I could thin it with vegetable oil and I have done that and made it usable. But since I started to watch some videos on auto work many times in the rust belt the majority of them use spray fluid film on everything axles bearing lug nuts and any metal surface so I am no using it and testing.Click here to learn more.
Dismiss Notice does Fluid Film actualy work? Discussion in ' Eureka Fluid Film ' started by powerjokeNov 8, Log in or Sign up. Read the timely article from Turf addressing this question. Messages: 1, LOL I'll watch it over the next week or so and report back but i think the FF has the advantage it's thicker and endorsed by Grandview if any one thinks i should change something about the experiment just let me know.
Here are some crappy cell pics i'll post better ones later. Last edited: Feb 10, Messages: Messages: 11, Put it out in the sun. A better test is to cover your one blue tractor in WD and the other in FF and then plow snow for the season. The WD will evaporate so quickly that you just wasted your money. I will tell you in the spring if the FF is worth the money, but I can tell from spraying it on that it is good. I have a couple tractors sprayed with Krown, which is the best thing I have tried up untill this year.
We will see how the FF compares against Krown in the spring. PJ I still like your experiment but trust me WD is a waste of money for rust proofing. JD DaveNov 9, Messages: 31, You need to add some moisture, dry salt will take forever to notice anything occurring.Forums New posts Search forums. Media New media New comments Search media.
I've read a lot of posts on oiling it, painting it, etc.
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